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SFVS’s Kristen Hagler, BS, RVT, CCRP, our resident canine rehab practitioner, recently participated on an InCirclePets panel on aging dogs and arthritis. 

The reader’s question: We have an 11-year-old Queensland Cattle dog that has numerous issues. Right now, we would like to strengthen his hind legs which have arthritis. Can you help us?

Kristen’s advice:

After 8 years of age a dog is considered geriatric, which means several things change both emotionally and physically. The most common age related condition that occurs in geriatric animals is arthritis, which can affect one or more joints. Several factors contribute to the severity of arthritis affecting animals, the most influential being body weight. The most important thing you can do to help a dog with arthritis is maintain an ideal body weight and get regular low impact exercise. Pain from arthritis can be alleviated nearly 10% by losing a few pounds and can be exacerbated to an unknown amount with excessive weight. Dogs normally bear 60% of their body weight on their front limbs and 40% on their rear limbs when standing in a neutral position. An animal with pain in the rear legs will often shift their bodyweight to the front legs altering the percentages and cause pain in multiple areas of the body, including those that do not have arthritis.

Another important thing you can do to help strengthen the rear legs is to think of the health of the entire body. The back, abdominal, and front leg muscles must also be strong to maintain proper body alignment. Walking for shorter, more frequent periods of time will help prevent overexertion during a walk. Start out slow on flat even surfaces and gradually begin to incorporate inclines and declines and small sets of stairs as tolerated. You and your pet should never need to stop in the middle of a walk, if this happens, you have gone too far. A walk should always start and stop strong. Once walking goals are accomplished, basic exercises such as performing a sit-stand, turning in a circle, weaving around objects, stepping over low ladder rungs, walking on a mattress, and swimming can help strengthen the entire body. Swimming does help a small amount to strengthen the rear legs, but unless the dog is walking in an underwater treadmill (typically at a rehabilitation facility) with adjustable water height, the rear legs are difficult to specifically target. General swimming is an excellent tool for cardiovascular health; just keep in mind the water temperature and underwater terrain. Colder water will be harsher on an arthritic joint and rocks can cause hazards. Before embarking on any new exercise progr am, it is strongly recommended to seek the advice of a professional trained in animal physical rehabilitation. This will ensure a safe and effective exercise plan for you and your pet.

Lastly, simple home modifications can be done to help weak rear legs. Elevating the food and water bowel slightly will help alleviate excess stress on the spine and front legs. If you have hardwood floors, purchasing booties for the rear legs will help to gain traction. In homes with a many stairs, purchasing a soft belly sling to aid in getting up and down the stairs will help avoid exhaustion and always have a soft padded bed available in a few areas of the home for your beloved companion to rest in.

For the other panelists’ answers, read more at Experts Weigh-In: Aging Dogs and Arthritis.

More information: canine rehab at SFVS (including recent “graduates”!)

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Araba Oglesby, DVM, joined the SFVS Emergency Services Department in early January. Dr. Oglesby was previously an intern at SFVS. We’re thrilled to have her on the SFVS team! Below, she answers a few questions about her background and experiences in veterinary medicine:

… From caterpillars to Howlers to dogs and cats!

1. When did you know you wanted to be a veterinarian?

I always knew that I had an intense interest in nature, even as a kid when I would take caterpillars from the crab-apple tree in our yard and put them on my mother’s houseplants “because I thought they were hungry and I wanted to watch them change into butterflies” – as I’m told.

In middle school and junior high we had a mentorship program where students could choose a field of interest and spend extracurricular time assisting and learning in that subject. In middle school I chose biology/nature and worked in the Philadelphia Zoo. Though it wasn’t glamorous by any stretch of the imagination (cleaning woodchuck cages, working in the petting zoo or dressing up like a butterfly for the tree-house), there were days where I could follow the zookeepers when they fed the elephants or were putting together new vivariums for the incoming reptiles/amphibians. This sparked my interest in wildlife. From there, the next location I chose to be mentored was the local small animal hospital where we would take the family cat. That was where I solidified my interest in veterinary medicine.

2. What’s your background? Tell us a little about life pre-SFVS.

My initial goal was to go into wildlife veterinary medicine. While applying and being wait-listed for vet school, I pursued my master’s at San Francisco State in animal physiology and behavior with an emphasis in wildlife animal behavior. I studied the Black Howler Monkey in Belize for two years, conducting a general ecology and behavior study comparing Howlers at an archaeological reserve where they were habituated to humans and a pristine site in which they had virtually no human contact.

During all of this I was also working at a small animal veterinary practice on the Pacifica coast. Going through vet school, reality set in (as well as the need to pay off student loans) and I focused on small animal medicine. Post vet school I realized just how much I loved emergency medicine, and set out to study and gain additional experience in the field. I was in general practice before I became an intern at SFVS through the small animal rotating internship (a program emphasizing emergency medicine). Even after the internship, working relief and full-time again in general practice, I maintained the drive toward emergency medicine.

3. What’s the toughest part of your job? The most rewarding? The scariest?

The rewarding part is being able to offer hope and care for a patient/client who wants a chance to recover (even if briefly) from a disease or injury. The most rewarding is giving them more time together when they thought there was no hope. The scariest are the times when an animal deteriorates right before your eyes in the face of doing everything you possibly can to help them. The toughest is having to tell an owner/caregiver you did everything you could, but the illness or injury overtook the pet – and then not carry that grief home with you.

4. As an intern at SFVS, and now coming on as an ES doctor, what are a couple of the strangest cases you’ve seen come through the door … something that really surprised you?

Funny, I know quite a few things have come through the door, but I can’t think of any single cases. I guess the fascinating things dogs have eaten: various socks, underwear, golf balls, whole Kong toys, fishhooks, chopsticks, glasses, rings, a huge block of cheese (whole) and even a cell phone.

Thank you, Dr. Oglesby!

Learn more: SFVS’s Emergency Services Department

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Client Stories: Ciara

At SFVS, our four core values are compassion, quality, service and integrity. Sometimes our expression of those values – and need for them – hit a little closer to home.

Following is Ciara’s story, beautifully written by Pat Sievers and Terri Jones. Terri is SFVS’s director of human resources.

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Ciara’s Story

by Pat Sievers and Terri Jones

Ciara is our last in a long line of old dogs.

Ciara

Old dog is not a subtle state of being, but neither is the mutual adoration that you share with them. And it seems that the more rickety and weak they get, the stronger their influence becomes on your entire life.

Dedicated to that influence and their every “need” it becomes clear how artful they’ve always been at “finessing” your behavior. They’ve been teaching you tricks their entire lives. In just the last year Ciara has taught us how to: know that a certain bark means help me now; know when pacing means hungry and when it means pain; communicate in Ciara sign language (she has old age deafness); help her “fly” into the car and help her “scramble” onto the couch.

You’re so distracted by their old age antics that you can deceive yourself into thinking every nuance is age-related …then it happens, a less than gradual decline, and you know there’s something else in there with the old.

Because we’re in the veterinary world we are allowed no illusions. It’s never long before you have to accept that there is disease disguised as old.

As it turns out, in Ciara’s case, it is Lymphoma.

In that veterinary world there are what seem like endless options. Options and choices that can rejuvenate or devastate, and in Ciara’s case, she experienced both. She’s a strong old girl, so we decided to fight the cancer with chemotherapy with the support of holistic and internal medicine. She did well, really improved with the first few treatments – it was remarkable, rejuvenating! Continuing with the protocol, onto the third chemo drug, it just took her down – devastated her body.

While we have always appreciated the amazing talent of the individuals at SFVS, this experience revived our awareness of the tremendous attention given to the care of the animals. We spent many hours, over many days, in the treatment room witnessing this fact.

The first night, her blood pressure dropped dangerously low. By morning she had pulled through, again in thanks to the genius and diligence of the hospital caregivers. Day after day, it was touch and go. It seemed like every five minutes there was some necessary attention being paid to her with a syringe, or a baby wipe, or fluids, or a clean potty pad, or a …

So much advice to consider, so much information to process – so overwhelming. Could it be that euthanasia was the right thing to do? This couldn’t be how Ciara would spend the last moments of her life. One reason why it was hard to let go was because it was our treatment choice that put her in this state, not the “natural” progression of the illness. The overruling reason that we were able to choose life over euthanasia for Ciara was the impeccable care she received allowing her the time to recover.

It didn’t seem likely, but after four long days, Ciara got up and walked out of the hospital. It was heartbreaking to observe the reality of so many others that weren’t so fortunate. Ciara is a very special being in our lives and we will so miss her when she’s finished fighting. It’s been seven weeks since she was hospitalized, and we continue to share the love thanks to the exceptional caretaking she received from the team at SFVS.

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Chris Johnson, DVM, one of SFVS’s 2009-2010 interns, answered an SF Chronicle reader’s question about the safety of pet products (other than food) that are made in China.

The question:

Q: Many rescue organizations and veterinarians warn against purchasing pet food made in China, and I can understand why, given recent scares about quality control. But what about other products that a pet’s mouth may come in contact with, such as toys and food bowls? Are there any health dangers or risks associated with these types of products? And is there anything I should look for before I buy?

In his answer, Dr. Johnson specifically addresses melamine and notes that it is “always important to be aware of what we are feeding our pets, which includes knowledge of the food’s ingredients and origins.”

For the full answer: Ask the Vet

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If you haven’t met Carlos O. Rodriguez, Jr., DVM, Ph.D., DACVIM, one of SFVS’s oncologists, here’s your chance to hear from him! Learn what his work as a veterinarian oncologist entails (pardon the pun):

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Hear from one of SFVS’s surgeons, Philip Watt, BVSc, MACVSc, FACVS, in the latest installment in our SFVS Video series.

Dr. Watt notes that “San Francisco is an amazing city for the human-animal bond.” We couldn’t agree more!

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Today’s video features one of SFVS’s internal medicine specialists, Craig H. Maretzki, VMD, MS, DACVIM. Hear about his road to becoming an internist, as well as some common conditions seen by the SFVS internal medicine team:

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In today’s SFVS video, we invite you to hear from SFVS dermatologist Dr. Carlo Vitale, learn a little more about veterinary dermatology, and listen to what one of his (adorable) feline friends has to say about all of this:

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[cross-posted from AskDrYin.com]

By Sophia Yin, DVM, MS (SFVS Behaviorist)

jonespostardcat-11. I’ve heard that a tired dog is a behaved dog. Will exercise solve most of my dog’s problems?

Dogs are natural athletes and as such need exercise every day; however, exercise is not a substitute for training. In fact, for many dogs, vigorous exercise just gets them into better shape. For instance, my Jack Russell Terrier can easily run 18 miles and still have enough energy to bounce up and down when he thinks I’ll play fetch. When I’ve taken him out for a 10 mile run, I frequently forget as soon as we’re back that he’s been exercised.

2. Do I need to be the boss when training my dog, cat, horse or bird?

While you will need to set rules and limits so that your pet knows how to behave, you don’t have to teach the behaviors by using force such as pinning them on their sides or yanking with a choke chain. You can instead train the pet by rewarding the good behaviors immediately as they occur and ensuring the pet does not get rewards for bad behavior. As a result, your approach for getting Fido trained should be more like a game of chess and less like a boxing match.

3. If I train my pet, how long will the training last?

Animals learn and change their habits throughout their life. This continual learning is important because an animal in the wild that stops learning won’t be able to adapt to its environment and survive. Continue reinforcing good behaviors throughout the animal’s life.

4. What’s the most common training mistake people make?

People think they’re only training during planned training sessions when in reality, animals are continually being rewarded for good and bad behaviors all day. As a result of this lack of awareness, owners often spend more time accidentally rewarding the undesirable behaviors than rewarding the desirable ones.

5. What’s the most important thing to understand about your dog or cat or horse to modify behavior?

The most important point about animals is that animals perform behaviors because the behaviors have been reinforced. In order to change behavior, we have to reward an alternate behavior that you would prefer and remove all rewards for undesirable behavior. This means that you have to recognize what might be reinforcing bad behavior so that you don’t accidentally reward it.

6. What do you use for rewards for pets?

It’s important to use everything that motivates your pet, to your advantage. Food rewards work well because, for instance, if your pet eats 100 kibble a day, you can reward him 100x for the same behavior in one day, which means he can learn the behavior and form a habit quickly. Once he knows the behavior well, you can give the food rewards intermittently and alternate with other reinforcers. Ultimately you want to use what’s most reinforcing to the pet at that instant. For instance, if you’re teaching your dog to sit before going out the door, at first reward with a sequence of treats for sitting and looking at you for permission before you let him out. Once he’s consistently good at this behavior, you no longer need treats because his ultimate reward is getting to go out the door once he’s automatically sat for you.

7. What’s the most important behavior you can teach your pet?

In general, for dogs and cats, the most important behavior is to teach them to ask politely for things they want by automatically saying please by sitting and looking at you for everything they want. That means food, petting, being picked up, going out the door, getting leash on, etc. By teaching them to learn to earn everything, they learn that focusing on you isn’t a chore, it’s just the way they get what they want. They also learn emotional self control: that no matter how excited they are for the ball or treat, they only get it if they choose to sit and politely ask for permission. Then, in other situations where they want something or are unsure of what to do, they will tend to look to you for guidance. In other words, they will start seeing you as a leader. Incidentally, the second most important behavior to teach your dog is to come running when called even with lots of distractions.

8. What’s special about horses?

One important reinforcer for horses and other herd animals that is not a reinforcer for dogs and cats is rest. As a result, when working on an exercise with a horse, goat or cow, as soon as it performs the exercise correctly, you can reward it by letting it rest for an amount of time equal to the time and effort the exercise took.

9. What’s special about cats?

Because cats often have their food out at all times and have not been exposed to many different foods, you often have to first add treats to their meal so they learn to like the treats. Then you often have to cut back on their regular meal because they are getting too much and train them during mealtimes until their food becomes a valuable resource.

Another peculiarity of cats is that they are good at pretending they have a low attention span or don’t get it. They may meow and meow or walk around aimlessly until you just walk over and give them the treat or reward. In these instances, rather than walking over to them when they really want your attention, walk away so they know that if they don’t play your game, you’ll remove all chances of a reward. Usually they will follow you and try harder to do what you want them to do to earn the reward. If they don’t, then stop the session and resume a little later.

10. What’s special about parrots?

Most parrot species are both very social and very vocal. They spend much of their time communicating back and forth loudly with their mate or other members of their flock. As a result, attention and talking are very rewarding to them, even if that talking is yelling. Face it, when we yell at them it sounds a lot like the squawks they give to each other. Be sure you use these things as rewards so that you’re training good behaviors rather than always providing these things freely without thought and consequently, sometimes as a reward for bad behavior.

11. Are some species such as dogs smarter than others such as cats?

This depends on how you define intelligence. If you define the most intelligent animal as the one that gets its way, then cats are hands down much smarter than dogs. People tend to think that animals that don’t learn what they are teaching must be stupid, rather than considering the fact that maybe they themselves are bad teachers or that they are using the wrong incentives or motivators. When animals are trained using positive reinforcement and behaviors are shaped in a stepwise fashion, cats and many animals one might consider dumb can learn as fast as dogs.

12. Are some dogs smarter and easier to train than others?

The first part is difficult to answer because intelligence can be measured in many ways. But more importantly, smarter does not mean easier to train. The easiest dogs to train are those that are relatively calm and have a dependent personality so that they want to please you. Because they have a follower personality, they learn what you want despite the gaps in your training and are happy to oblige. Dogs that are more independent and consequently could care less about verbal kudos have to be trained more methodically and with things that are actually motivating to them. When trained in a stepwise fashion, you may not notice much difference in speed of learning and they will appear happy and willing to learn too. When you skip steps or use rewards that the dog doesn’t care about, these dogs come off as stubborn and willful. When you combine independence with high energy and arousal such as a Jack Russell Terrier, plus a strong ability to problem-solve or tenacity in getting to what they want, you can be in for a big struggle. If you’re not a step ahead and several IQ points smarter, your cute puppy Einstein may develop into an evil genius.

13. Do you use only positive reinforcement?

No. While it’s essential that we focus on reinforcing good behaviors, it’s equally important to remove rewards for undesirable behavior (scientific definition = negative punishment). If both are not done equally, then the animal will continue to be confused as to which behavior you want and a good habit will never be formed.

14. What are the most common mistakes people make when using positive reinforcement?

A common mistake is that people don’t distinguish the difference between a lure/baiting and a reinforcer. A lure is when the animal sees the motivator such as food or a toy in front of his face and performs the behavior because he’s just following it. A reinforcer is when the dog performs the behavior and then he may or may not get the reward after he performs the behavior. In one case – luring – the pet can see the food or toy and decide whether he wants to follow it and perform the behavior. In the second case, he doesn’t always get the reward afterward, and he doesn’t know until after he performs the behavior whether he will get one. Many owners start with luring and never progress beyond needing to bait.

A second common mistake is that people often praise or pet animals as a reward when the animal shows no behavioral indication that he finds these rewarding. With wild animals such as giraffes, the training is still paired with food usually so the only negative is that the giraffe has to hear a lot of blabbing. For dogs, the praise and petting is often in lieu of something he would rather have such as food, so the dog ends up getting bored.

15. If I use food/treats for training, won’t the pet only behave when I have food?

If you train incorrectly or incompletely with food, then you will always need food around for the animal to perform the behavior. Conversely with punishment you’re likely to always need the punisher (choke chain, pinch collar) on the dog or readily available so that the dog knows that if he doesn’t behave, he will get punished.

The way to wean off food rewards is to first reward enough so that the animal learns the behavior well in different contexts. Then the handler should start rewarding with food more intermittently and sometimes switching and using other rewards that the dog wants at that instant, such praise or toys. One mistake is to accidentally make it black and white to the dog that training occurs in specific sessions and at other times they don’t require or reward the same good behavior. In fact they may even accidentally reward bad behavior. In other words they have not made it a habit yet that the dog behaves throughout the day, it’s only habit to behave during training sessions. What owners should do is have the reward available every time during the day that they need it until the dog learns to behave well all the time.

16. Won’t using treats train the dog or horse to be nippy?

Your pet will only become nippy if you reward nippy behavior. For instance, if you feed the food reward when your dog lunges for the food or horse grabs, then you will train the dog or horse to lunge to get the food. The best way to prevent nippy behavior is to reward the horse only when he stands with his head away from you and to reward the dog only when he’s gentle.

17. Do people have naughty pets because they treat them like their kids?

People should not spoil their kids or their pets. Spoiled kids who have no boundaries tend to grow into depressed adults. Spoiled dogs who have no limits tend to be more anxious or frustrated than dogs with clear rules even though they may have access to everything they want.

18. Is punishment ever appropriate?

Punishment, which for the purpose here we will define as force or coercion, can range from verbal reprimand, to a painful jerk on a choke chain or pinch collar, to using an electronic shock. It’s anything that the animal dislikes or wants to avoid and it decreases the behavior being punished. While punishment can be effective in some situations, it is generally a more advanced technique and can have many side effects. People tend to use punishment indiscriminately because it’s the first thing that comes to their mind. That is, they use punishment because they are not proactive enough to reward good behavior and prevent rewards for bad behavior.

As a veterinarian my job is to recommend the techniques that are safest to both animal and human and that are effective. Consequently, I do not recommend punishment as a general approach to training, because other safer and equally or more effective techniques are available. When punishment is used, it should be used with full knowledge of the potential side effects so that they can be avoided or remedied if they do occur. Here are several considerations when deciding on whether punishment is appropriate:

  • In general, punishment should only be used after the handler has a strong history of reinforcing the good behavior so that the pet has an alternate appropriate behavior it knows to perform.
  • Punishment should only be used as a way to buy time to reward the good behavior frequently enough so it become a habit. In general my recommendation is that if punishment is used, it be used for one specific behavior and that an alternate behavior be rewarded 50x to every punishment.
  • Punishment can cause the other pets in the household to become anxious and fearful. Although the punishment may not be directed at them, it may still scare them. Since it’s not related to any behavior that they can control, meaning they have no way to predict when or prevent it from occurring, they are likely to become more anxious.
  • Punishment must be strong enough to get a clear reaction so that the animal does not habituate to (adapt to or get used to) the force used. The problem is that this can also cause injury to the animal if it’s too high. And it can cause anxiety if the timing is not right or the owner doesn’t consistently punish every single time the bad behavior occurs.
  • Generally negative punishment (removing the reward for bad behavior) and positive reinforcement are easier to perform and more effective than using force (positive punishment). Both require the same timing, but as you’ll see, positive punishment may require more strength and more speed.
  • Punishment can cause animals to become more aggressive and aroused. For instance, animals are often scared when threatened with punishment and may become defensive when they can’t flee. When animals are fearful of being hurt, they can run, freeze or fight. If running or freezing doesn’t work, then they are more likely to fight.

For more information on punishment, download the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior’s (AVSAB) Guidelines on the use of punishment.

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SFVS behaviorist Sophia Yin, DVM, MS (Animal Behavior) answered an SF Chronicle’s reader’s question about a dog being super-afraid of the loud noise from motorcycles. (Sometimes the noise even gets to some of us sensitive humans.) From today’s Ask the Vet column:

Whenever I’m walking my dog and he hears a motorcycle or any type of vehicle with a loud, rumbling engine, he goes berserk and tries to chase after it. At 80 pounds, he’s a large dog, and I’m afraid one day I won’t have the strength to hold him and he’ll break loose and run into the street. What can I do to break him of this habit?

For the answer, read: Retrain the dog to ignore loud engine noise

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